F THE FISKER OCEAN WON’T CHARGE BECAUSE HV BATTERY IS AT 0%:
- Symptom is the HV battery is at 0%, and the light is red on charge port. The dash says fault, contact service.
- Your charger won’t work on the HV port at this point.
- You will need a 20 amp or BETTER 14 volt battery BOX CHARGER from a hardware store. Any less (trickle, etc) will NOT WORK.
- You will ALSO need a LVL 1 EVSE charger set to 8 amps, OR lvl 2 at any amp.
- Connect the 12v battery box 20amp+ to your 12v battery.
- If LVL 1 EVSE, reduce to 8 amps.
- Reduce your ocean charging to 8 amps.
- If you have level 2 or 3 then let it rip at 32A, “but keep 12 support going until it’s steady and no alerts.”
- Plug in your HIGH VOLTAGE battery charger with the reduced settings.
- It should now charge. Let it get at least 20 miles and swap it over to a faster charger.
- Once the main battery has 20 miles or better, disconnect 12v and go get it charged up as normal.
KEEP IT ABOVE 20% for best practice.
** In that particular situation at displayed 0% (it’s not actually empty there is a safety net), you want to maximize 12 support before trying to initiate HV charging. Let it charge up a bit while locked then unlock and charge HV if you have a Level 1 then limit the input to 8 amps on the screen to minimize charging errors. If you have level 2 or 3 then let it rip at 32A, but keep 12 support going until its steady and no alerts**
Another trick is to always keep the drivers seat buckled and if you exit the vehicle keep it in Neutral to ensure the vehicle stays in Ready mode and is supporting 12v. Anything less than 6% HV SOC will initiate a safe state and 12v support will taper off. If you exit the vehicle in park or lock the vehicle, the 12v will eventually die.
When a parked vehicle running 2.0+ has a dead 12v it’s almost always at 5% HV SOC.
The trick I mentioned will also keep the rear 110v outlet hot.
You can even close the door and keep the key in your pocket.
It will stay in Neutral and Ready until you open the door again.
If you’re still having issue charging let that 12v charge up for 30 min, then disable HV and disconnect 12v for a reset.
Enable HV then reconnect 12v, immediately start charging 12v again.
It will reset and see good voltage, should clear any errors keeping it from charging HV.
The car really likes 12v and a 2 amp maintainer isn’t going to help.
DEAD FISKER = 1 of 2 most likely scenarios.
Scenario 1:
Key fob functions to get in car when battery tender w/ booster function (>20 amp) placed on 12 volt battery. Trickle chargers do not work as Fisker engineers state this does not revive a dead ocean 12 volt battery - 32 modules attempt to draw power and need a high amp battery charger connected once a high amp charger is connected, the charge port should accept a HV connector to charge the main battery now. Keep the charger connected to 12 volt until main battery is above 10%.
IMPORTANT: doggie windows may lose calibration after a dead 12v battery, do not attempt Cali mode until a tech at a readership can re-calibrate that module.
Scenario 2:
Key fob does not function. Attempt to change fob battery. Key not recognized in car. 12 volt battery good. HV battery good. Rear hatch access possible but alarm sounds. Holding to nfc does not work. **Most likely 2.0 part 3 - the update of the PKC module for your key fob has been interrupted and failed. The fob is now erased and needs a dealership with a technician that has a FAST tool and DSA credentials to re-write the fob.
